George and his uncle
Grinding up fufu
Yesterday, I received my fourth marriage proposal this week. It should be flattering, but it has become tedious to repeatedly say no. Apparently, Ching Chong Obruni is a hot commodity. In seriousness, a lot of foreigners encounter this phenomenon if they stay in Ghana for an extended amount of time. Ghanaians often look up to foreigners, assuming that they are rich and have the power to bring them and their family out of poverty.
Much to my chagrin, my room, or more aptly, my cave, is right next to a rooster hang out spot. That means at 4:00 A.M. every morning, I wake up to the rooster's ear splitting "cuckoo-ing." In my first day, I was so irritated with the "foul" creature that I made up my mind to silence the fowl by all possible means only to find out that the bird is safely ensconced in a cage. I have tried to poke it into silence with a stick, suggested eating it to my host mother, and thrown rocks at it. But the rooster is still a reliable alarm clock, only set three hours too early. One effect of living up and close to chickens is that I will never have any more moral qualms about eating them. They honestly are one of the dumbest, most irritating, and the nastiest creatures alive.
Speaking of animals, I have not seen the family feed the livestock/"pets". The family does not have enough money to feed both the animals and the children. The goats roam around the village eating some truly disgusting things, and I imagine that the dogs hunt at night. The dogs here are nocturnal- I imagine that they are descendants of some tropical wild dog that slept during the hottest parts of the day and hunted during the cool parts. Anyway, perhaps because these dogs have to fend for themselves, they are sharper than most Western dogs. One time, I was lost in a bush trail during an imprudent late night walk only to realize that one of the dogs had been following me the whole time. When I paused, the dog ran ten yards ahead of me, looked back, and when I caught up, the dog repeated the routine until we got to the house.
Ghana is the most flagrantly Christian country that I have seen. Ghanaians like to show their faith in the naming of their businesses. I would estimate that eight out of ten tro tros here have decal that doesn't say its destination, but religious messages. These are appropriate messages for Ghanaian tro tros. Tro tros are the mass transit vehicles that typically are 20-30 year old van designed to seat six, but modified to seat 25. These understandably have a very high fatal accident rate. So the messages of "pray" is quite apt while braving these unpredictable vehicles. Cumulatively, especially when you encounter Trust in God Hair Saloon, Innocent Blood Restaurant, and Virgin Club, it feels like you are stuck in a world run by an evangelical Hallmark company.
Pa, the youngest, pooped on me. I was lifting him when I heard a farting sound, and when I looked down, there was a nasty green goo on Julia's bed and on my clothes. I wish there were diapers, but when you're pressed for cash, you have to make do.
Well, some things...
Rebecca is leaving tomorrow for Germany.
Next week, Julia and I plan to take a trip to a lake to break the restless monotony of village life.
Monday, hopefully, I will start at the hospital.